We often tend to forget that this corner of the world, of which Armenia is a part, embarked on its winemaking journey more than 6,100 years ago. With its terroir and volcanic soils, this magnificent country of some 3 million people is experiencing a true renaissance on the international wine scene, now claiming the title of “the oldest and newest wine region in the world.”
Geopolitically speaking, this small country—about the size of Belgium—relies on Georgia and Iran for access to global markets, as its borders with its main enemies, Turkey and Azerbaijan, are closed. Nevertheless, Armenia reveals an ancient land where every landscape seems steeped in history. Especially when it comes to wine…
In fact, in 2007, archaeologists made an astonishing discovery in the Areni 1 cave, located in the Vayots Dzor region of south-central Armenia: the world’s oldest known wine cellar, dating back more than 6,100 years. This ancient facility included a wine press, fermentation vats, storage jars, and even drinking cups. This discovery provided concrete evidence that Armenians have been producing wine for millennia, making wine an integral part of their heritage and culture.
The remains of an ancient wine cellar in Vayots Dzor, dating back 6,100 years
A thousand-year history of winemaking
It must be said that Armenia’s winemaking tradition is closely linked to the country’s history and religion. Wine has been produced in the region since the time of Noah (yes, the guy with the ark…), who, according to legend, planted the first vineyard on the slopes of Mount Ararat. Over the centuries, wine has played an essential role in religious ceremonies, social gatherings, and daily life.
Vineyards at the foot of Mount Ararat (photo: CMB)However, for most of the 20th century, Armenian wine was overshadowed by brandy. In fact, it was under the Soviet regime that vineyards were reoriented toward the industrial production of “cognac.” As a bit of trivia, Stalin is said to have offered Armenian brandy to Winston Churchill during the Yalta Conference in February 1945. Churchill is said to have received 400 bottles of the precious nectar each year after World War II. This effectively established Armenia as a producer of brandy rather than wine.
photo : CMB
Thus, under the Soviet regime from 1920 to 1991, wine production was replaced by brandy production; fortunately, however, some native grape varieties survived on family-owned plots where they were grown for table wine production.
Armenia has been free to produce its own wine again since 1991
In fact, when Armenia regained its independence, a new generation of winemakers began to bring these indigenous grape varieties back into vogue: Areni, Armenia’s flagship red grape variety, often compared to Pinot Noir for its finesse; Voskehat, nicknamed the “golden berry,” a white grape variety prized for its floral aromas and mineral structure; and Khatouni, a white grape variety offering a delicate texture and subtle notes of stone fruit. They have also begun to reintroduce traditional methods, such as karas winemaking—fermentation and aging in buried clay vessels.
Many Armenian vineyards are located at altitudes ranging from 1,000 to 1,800 meters above sea level (3,280 to 6,000 feet), making them among the highest in the world.
“The oldest and the newest of the wine-growing regions”
Over the generations, Armenian winemakers have perfected their craft by combining traditional techniques with modern innovations. As a result, the country is now known as “the oldest and newest of wine regions.”
More than 350 professional wine tasters from around the world had the opportunity to experience Armenian winemaking expertise at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles held in Yerevan last May
What could be more natural, then, than for this region—which is once again making its mark on the international wine scene—to host the prestigious Brussels World Wine Competition, which brought together more than 350 seasoned wine tasters from some 60 countries to discover Armenian vineyards and judge thousands of wines from all over the world?
Quentin Havaux, CEO of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, alongside Zaruhi Muradyan, Executive Director of the Vine & Wine Foundation of Armenia
Wineries to explore
Founded by three friends with a passion for winemaking, the boutique winery Trinity Canyon Vineyards produces organic wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Armenian highlands. Nestled in the heart of the Armenian mountains, in the picturesque village of Aghavnadzor in the Vayots Dzor region, Trinity’s vineyards benefit from a unique high-altitude terroir characterized by volcanic soil and a strictly continental climate.
Artem Parseghyan, winemaker at Trinity CanyonWhat are the estate’s guiding principles, according to the owners? Low-intervention, organic farming, and the use of traditional methods to let nature take the lead, cultivating the vines organically, without synthetic chemicals or pesticides.
“Winemaking is both a science and an art,” explains Artem Parseghyan, the winemaker, who studied at the Trinity Canyon estate in Montpellier. Located at an average altitude of 450 meters, their vineyards enjoy a continental climate, characterized by hot summers and mild winters.
Armenia Wine Company
Armenia Wine Company, as its name suggests, is an industry giant that bottles 14 million bottles annually under more than 140 different labels. Aragatsotn, Armavir, Ararat, and Vayots Dzor are the regions where the grapes are grown in the heart of the Armenian terroir and are then vinified by Armenia Wine. The grape varieties harvested include Armenian and European varieties such as Areni Black, Kangun, Voskehat, Haghtanak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, Merlot, Malbec, and Primitivo.
Speaking of another Armenian giant, the Karas winery—whose name means “amphora” in Armenian—offers sweeping views of the vineyards as far as the eye can see. At the foot of Mount Ararat, this project led by Eduardo Eurnekian, Juliana Del Aguila, and the late Michel Rolland benefits from a unique volcanic terroir. The estate claims to produce world-class wines, blending millennia-old tradition with environmental innovation.
Northern Terroir’s wines are made from indigenous Armenian grape varieties that deserve to be better known
Nestled in the heart of the unique terroir of northern Tavush, Northern Terroir’s vineyards are tended with the utmost care to make the most of the region’s natural riches. Located at an average altitude of 450 meters, they enjoy a continental climate characterized by hot summers and mild winters. It is here that the estate produces Zoé, a sparkling wine bursting with summer fruit aromas: green apple, citrus, lime, and orange, with a lively finish of grapefruit juice. A very pleasant sparkling wine made using the Charmat method. Its TUS white cuvée, made from Lalvari, a native grape variety, offers fresh, floral notes with citrus accents, along with flavors of quince and pineapple.
The terroir of Van Ardi is characterized by rocky soils of volcanic origin, rich in minerals and ideal for viticulture. The vineyards face south-southeast, at an elevation of 1,050 meters above sea level. With a dry, windy microclimate—warm by day and cool by night—these vineyards are virtually free of disease.
Located in the historic wine-growing region of Aragatsotn, Van Ardi is Armenia’s first boutique winery, born out of a genuine passion, where music, art, culture, dance, and wine come together to promote wine as a way of life, according to Varuzhan Mouradian, who left Los Angeles in 2008 to return to his homeland. His wines made from Areni, Haghtanak, Milagh, and even Syrah are his trademark.
Finally, the family-run Voskeni estate features a picturesque vineyard with a cozy restaurant, a terrace offering breathtaking views of Mount Ararat, and a family always ready to welcome you. It produces several vintages, including the 2016 Old Vines 130 Reserve, made from some of the oldest Areni vines in Armenia, planted over 130 years ago at an altitude of 1,676 meters in the mountainous region of Vayotz Dzor, in the village of Aghavnadzor. Aged for 12 months in new Armenian/Caucasian oak barrels, this wine is lively, well-structured, and balanced, with a rich, floral nose, fruitier aromas that become more pronounced on the mid-palate, and a long finish.
A wine-producing country that is more important than ever
This edition of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles was organized by a country that has successfully showcased the strengths of the Armenian wine industry. Once we’ve left, we find ourselves thinking back on its wines, with a longing to return and reconnect with the generosity of a fascinating and incredibly welcoming people who call this Caucasian country home, caught between its Soviet heritage and European aspirations. Here is the link to view the results of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, which was held in Yerevan.
Alongside wines from around the world, Armenian wines stood out during the blind tastings
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